Sigalas Santorini 2015
Wine AdvocateThe 2015 Assyrtiko, Sigalas' monovarietal Santorini, comes in at 14% alcohol. If this isn't the unoaked wine of the vintage so far, it is pretty close and certainly on my short list. As always, Sigalas is not necessary the big blockbuster, but the winery provides superb concentration in its own right. Yet, the result always seems very graceful. When you realize how many layers there are, it seems hard to believe because it shows so well on first taste. It doesn't seem overly big. It doesn't seem to be hiding anything. Yet, it is. The wine always shows better with a few years in the cellar, or a day or two later. (Or, decant it. Do an experiment: taste half a bottle undecanted and compare to a decanted half bottle.) The tastings on the second day were really what sold on me this. It was fine on the first day, but impressive on the second. The concentration, finesse, balance and structure always serve this wine in good stead. This year, its purity of fruit seems even more impressive. It is a gorgeous Sigalas, mingling understatement, fine persistence and purity. Do yourself a favor and give this about three years in the cellar (maybe five). They always blossom. It is a wine that will not only hold, but improve. As I've stated recently, this category needs some reevaluation upwards, so it is not really that this is so unique. That said, this is still an exceptional Sigalas.